This May, I was lucky enough to be selected by Wine Tasmania to join a trade tasting experience in Hobart. The trip was an opportunity to shine a spotlight on the spectacular Tasmanian wines and showcased some of the exceptional produce that Tasmania has developed a strong reputation for.
The meeting point to kick off the tour, and our lodgings for the night were the historic Hadley’s Orient Hotel. The hotel officially opened its doors in 1834 and this stunning old building has seen many pivotal moments in its time as well as a few famous (or notorious characters through its doors. This is where I joined the group, along with our fabulous hosts Tess and Sheralee from Wine Tasmania. Joining the tour was an impressive group of somms, venue owners, wine writers, and wine connoisseurs from across NSW and SA. A great group with lots of knowledge, experience and enthusiasm for the days ahead.
It was an early start as we bundled onto the bus and made our way to Pooley Wines for a sparkling wine tasting, an excellent start to the day. For those in the trade, tasting is a very different experience than the usual cellar door experience. There are normally several brackets of wine to taste and compare, and we had 30 sparklings to taste for our morning’s work. The spittoon is an essential friend to keep one sharp, take note and fully experience the wines on offer.
As we tasted sparkling from all across the isle, we were joined by Frieda Henskens from Henskens Rankin, the legendary Ed Carr of House of Arras and Jennifer Doyle from Jansz. The quality of the wines were as exceptional as they were diverse. A few (a lot!) of the stand-outs if you are looking for something different were Henskens Rankin 2012 Vintage Brut, Bellebonne 2019 Vintage Rosé, Meadowbank Blanc De Noir, Delamere 2016 Cuvee. And, of course the House of Arras and Jansz were consistent contenders for quality and reputation.
Listening to the wine-makers’ experience, approach to and process of making wine gave incredible insights into the passion and discipline they have for their craft. Although, the size of their productions differed, you grasped a true sense of commitment to express the quality and unique characters of the fruit and terroir.
Our palates racing, we next looked to lunch, scheduled at The Source in MONA. Through the drive to MONA, the crisp, sunny morning had now set into a light drizzle. Fortunately, by our arrival to The Source, the sun returned triumphant allowing us to enjoy a less structured tasting of Rieslings while lunch was prepared. Here we were joined by Conor van der Reest and Beppe Perisco from Moorilla (MONA’s own vineyeard) as well as colleagues from Josef Chromy and Pooley Wines.
A few wines to keep an eye out from the tasing here were the Two Tonne TMV and Dog & Wolf Rieslings (both 2021), Pooley Wines Margaret Pooley Tribute (2021) and the Moorilla Muse (2019).
Lunch was a feast for the eyes as much as the senses. Those of you familiar with MONA will know that this place does nothing by halves - every detail is designed to be unsuspecting and unexpected. We chatted busily and got to know a lot more about each other’s businesses and work experience. It was a great way to connect and learn. As we dined, we could see the stormfront return – a dramatic, wooly view was before us adding to the ambience and mood. After lunch, we had the chance to explore the museum and grounds before catching the ferry back.
I don’t want to say too much about the MONA experience as it is truly something you have to experience (and absorb) for yourself but all I will say is it a place that will challenge you, captivate you, disturb you, delight you and it won’t be forgotten any time soon!
After our compelling trail through MONA, the rain had settled in as we navigated down the wet steps to our awaiting ferry. It has been a long day of learning, absorbing and being enthralled by the enigmatic MONA. We enjoyed a relaxed beer (Tassie sparkling for me of course) on the ferry back into town.
We parted briefly to refresh ourselves for dinner at the ultra-cool La Sardinia Loca, where we were re-joined by the wine-makers and incredibly privileged to be tasting some exceptional museum wines. Many of these wines are no longer available to buy, making it a particularly special experience. My personal favourites were House of Arras 2004 Late Disgorged Vintage, 2016 Dawson James Chardonnay, and the Two Tonne 2018 Dog & Wolf Pinot Noir.
During dinner at La Sardinia Loca, we enjoyed plate after plate of decadent Spanish-inspired share plates and by the end of dinner, our collective was more relaxed (if not a bit rowdy). Our hosts, Sheralee and Tess bid us good night along with the winemakers, noting that they had seen many a fallen soul the next day if we dared to kick-on. But with most of us there for a short time, and a keen interest to support local hospitality, we did head off for the inevitable ‘one more’ at a fantastic wine bar up the road, Sonny. An intimate bar with a big reputation, the records were blaring, and the Chardonnay was flowing. Our ‘one more’ was worth the visit.
The next morning we were headed for the gorgeous surrounds of Clemens Hill for a Chardonnay tasting. We were guided through the tasting brackets experiencing the diversity in styles, regions, and maker’s flair. Just as much as we were enjoying the wine tasting, we enjoyed the enviable view surrounding us. Tasmania really is a place of genuine beauty and the vistas conjure a sense of sereneness.
My time in Tassie was drawing nigh, but we were not done with our experience yet! It was off to Derwent Estate for lunch and an unstructured tasting of alternative varieties and Pinot Noir– a star of Tasmanian wines. Derwent Estate has just built a new restaurant facility and our group was fortunate to be the first to dine in this the new addition. I think the potatoes served were amongst the best I have ever tasted. Again, the food, the wines and the view brought together were more than the sum of their parts – Tasmania sure does provide an all-encompassing experience for the senses.
Tasmania for many invokes a rugged, romantic and bucolic ideal – and while it is all those things, it is also a place of growing innovation, challenging boundaries and senses. It is a place where people have a keen desire to bring their absolute best to produce the food and wine of the island. I cannot recommend a visit highly enough.
Top Tips:
Prepare for any weather, but mostly make-sure you have clothes for wet or windy weather
Sparkling wines are a must do – try a few of the more boutique or emerging producers for something different
Hire a car – makes getting around much easier if you plan to leave the city of Hobart
Fun Facts
The first known Australian sparkling wine was produced in Tasmania in 1826
Cuttings from Tasmania produced the first recorded vines in Hunter Valley, Victoria and South Australia, so Tassie lays claim to being the oldest!
There are 90 cellar doors in Tasmania so you are sure to find something to suit your palate
All photos by Wine Tasmania